I've taken some time away from working on my project to get some small medical things done and get a little recovery time. I've spent some time to get the McLeod hydraulic clutch throwout bearing ordered. And then I ordered the PiMPxs system. That includes the expansion harness to take the inputs from the PyroPete crank trigger and cam sync as well as the coil-near-plug system and the injectors.  So when I'm ready to do some shop work again I can fit the clutch and throwout bearing and continue on with geting it all into the car to work out the final fit. 

 After all the fiddling and making comprimises with the engine position I felt that I was getting backed into a corner by the distributor location. The two choices were to use the CAS on a distributor body - which gives the PimpXs the input it needs to do SEFI and sequential spark plug control or to use the crank trigger and cam sync distributor stub kit that duplicates the Ford EDIS operation offered by pyropete on ebay. The comprimise with that is that in order to mount the crank trigger wheel you have to trim 1/4 inch off the crank pulley. It's not so much the machine work but the reduction in physical contact area between the crank pulley and the crank snout. But other people do it on some pretty extreme output engines so I am just going to accept that as the least impact comprimise. I've got the kit on order today. While I wait for the kit, along with the exhaust manifold from BigR Motorsports, I will fit up the entire engine/ transmission into the chassis so that I can ma...

 Today I sent some time getting the engine onto a dolly so that I could maneuver it around inside of the chassis and control it's height and tilt independant of the chassis. I had to go to this effort so that I could work out the exact (or close to exact) engine position I could work out that gave me clearance it the distributor, the crank pully, the bell housing, and the cam shroud at the bonnet all at the same time. I used some wheel dollies to set the engine on its oil pan and at the bell housing. Then I used a couple of screw jacks between the dolly and each motor mount to control lateral tilt (roll). I then used shims under the oil pan and bell housing to control longitudinal tilt. I placed that dolly inside the chassis with the front jacked up enough so that the engine hoist could slide under the frame rails. Then lowering and tilting the engine with my leveling bar I gently lowered the engine back into the chassis and onto the dolly. So far, no drama. Crank about 1 inch belo...